Hydration, barrier protection, reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), fibroblast stimulation, re-epithelialization.
Important Chemical Components:
Pantothenic acid (C9H17O5N): chemically known as 3-[(2,4-Dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanoyl) amino] propanoic acid
Dexpanthenol (D-panthenol): chemically known as (+)-2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethylbutyramide
Pantothenic acid is natural and found throughout the plant and animal kingdoms. Dexpanthenol is synthetic and, therefore, not considered organic or natural.
Personal Care Category:
Humectant, emollient, anti-inflammatory
Recommended for the following Baumann Skin Types:
DRNT, DRNW, DRPT, DRPW, DSNT, DSNW, DSPT, and DSPW
Present in all living cells, pantothenic acid is a precursor for the production of acetyl coenzyme A, an essential substrate for acetylcholine synthesis. Pantothenic acid, or vitamin B5, belongs to the water-soluble B vitamin family and is also an essential ingredient in the enzymes necessary for metabolizing carbohydrates and fats. Proper growth and development depends partly on this vitamin as does the maintenance of normal epithelial function, including skin regrowth.1 Among the best sources of pantothenic acid (PA) are fish, beef, whole grains, dairy, eggs, mushrooms, peanuts and other legumes, cashews, broccoli, soybeans, and avocados, but most whole foods contain some PA. In fact, deficiency of PA is virtually unknown because of its broad availability in food sources.
The word “pantothenic” is derived from the Greed word pantos (“everywhere”), suggesting the omnipresence of the vitamin in the plant and animal world. Dexpanthenol (provitamin B5) is the stable alcohol form of pantothenic acid. It is popular and well regarded in the treatment of various skin conditions.2
Not found naturally, synthetic dexpanthenol is converted to PA in the skin, stimulating skin regeneration in a fashion comparable to vitamin A. This process of cell division and formation of new skin tissue restores skin elasticity and promotes wound healing. In fact, both in vitro and in vivo, dexpanthenol has been shown to promote fibroblast proliferation.1 Therefore, water-soluble dexpanthenol has been used topically to foster wound healing. Formulations containing dexpanthenol have exhibited a capacity to stimulate epithelialization and granulation while imparting an antipruritic, anti-inflammatory effect on experimental ultraviolet-induced erythema.1 In an early study, treatment with dexpanthenol over a three- to four-week period resulted in significant improvement in skin-irritation symptoms such as xerosis, pruritus, erythema, roughness, scaling, and fissures.1 Several other benefits to the skin have been associated with provitamin B5. In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study, treatment with topical dexpanthenol over a seven-day period resulted in enhanced stratum corneum (SC) hydration and decreased TEWL.3
Dexpanthenol is used in a wide range of cosmetic products, typically to moisturize the skin, and formulated in some intramuscular and intravenous products. Topically applied provitamin B5 also acts to prevent TEWL while moisturizing the skin. It is well tolerated and poses minimal risk of irritation or sensitivity.