TY - CHAP M1 - Book, Section TI - Anti-Aging Ingredients A1 - Baumann, Leslie S. A1 - Weisberg, Edmund M. A2 - Baumann, Leslie S. A2 - Rieder, Evan A. A2 - Sun, Mary D. PY - 2022 T2 - Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology, 3e AB - SUMMARY POINTSWhat’s Important?Anti-aging therapies remain focused on inducing fibroblasts to produce collagen and ECM components and preventing the breakdown of these vital dermal constituents.No topical products can enhance elastin synthesis in the skin; increased elasticity claims are more likely due to greater moisturization than increased elastin.Retinoids, including retinol, are still the most proven topical anti-aging ingredients.Ascorbic acid also has significant efficacy data to show it increases collagen synthesis.Antioxidants help mitigate several aging processes such as mitochondrial damage, inflammation, DNA mutations, and glycation.Peptides have poor penetration and stability and are highly reactive with other ingredients.The efficacy and safety of growth factors depend on growth factor type.What’s New?The abstracts of peptide anti-aging efficacy studies are misleading.Look closely at study design and statistical significance when evaluating anti-aging ingredient research.The growth factor TGF-β has the most data to support its use for skin rejuvenation.Stem cells in pre-packaged topical creams have no proven efficacy.Defensins activate the stem cell LGR6+ leading to new keratinocytes.Heparan sulfate improves cell-to-cell communication in aged fibroblasts.What’s Coming?Safety data on the use of peptides, stem cells, and growth factors after microneedling.Improvements in peptide penetration may improve efficacy and possibly decrease safety.More information on growth factor safety in the presence of skin cancer. SN - PB - McGraw Hill LLC CY - New York, NY Y2 - 2024/03/29 UR - dermatology.mhmedical.com/content.aspx?aid=1197535540 ER -